ATSAMD11C14 vs ATMega32U4?
Both native USB
ATSAMD11C14 (32 bit): less pins, low memory, faster, easier to solder, need J-link to program
ATMega32U4: more pins, higher memory, slower, difficult to solder, directly program
Bigger pins ATMega https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/microchip-technology/ATMEGA32U4RC-AUR/ATMEGA32U4RC-AURCT-ND/2774248
Other parts and lead free solder @digikey
Presentation slide https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1i4MryEniZhbAhFP9ErM981HA3PtvgBQy70oJrNSaqNk/edit?usp=sharing
About the MIDI controller:
It’ll actually be 12-14 separate MIDI controllers for 12-14 people. Each one is just one slide potentiometer. Each one has its own channel. This will then be played through a synchronous web platform.
The idea is to have 12-14 people controlling different slides from different physical spaces but same digital space.
About variable clock:
This week we put the Eagle file to work!
Bantam setup: http://homemadehardware.com/guides/bantam-setup/
Bantam milling: http://homemadehardware.com/guides/bantam-milling-1/
CUTTING – Cutting my first Tiny PCB – this went quite smoothly with the help of Arnab. I only had to change the bit once as the design did not require the engraving bit (I’d made the cuts as thick as possible to ease the milling and the electrical flow).
CLEANING – After cleaning with Scotch Brite, the PCB was ready to be soldered on. I made sure the copper crumbs were not blocking any of the cuts.
SOLDERING – I made a huge mistake here when putting solder paste on to the board. I put on too much solder connecting most of the LED and resistors all together! (mistake!) Of course this was cleaned once I realized.
POWER TESTING – 2 of the LEDs did not come on (top left hand corner) and I had to re-solder those.
CODING – Finally time to upload the code. At first I had used the jig and a separate power and ground source while trying to upload code on to the PCB. This caused issues because there wasn’t a common ground. (mistake!) After changing to powering by the same Arduino board as the one uploading the code, everything worked fine.
Sensor making – I sculpted another atTiny shaped sensor using a wire to use as the capacitive sensor (hanging off the bottom of the board). ***There are 3 atTiny’s here… can you spot all of them?***
Final output – after Andy placed all of them together …
I hope my PCB works as an ‘i’!
Eagle files (board and schematic): https://github.com/hellonun/homemade_hardware/tree/master/marquee%20sign
When to prioritise air wire or long wiring (when to prioritize short wiring?)
- ATtiny and components attached in link
- 3V coin battery
- Lego pieces
I’ve always wanted to make small electronic bugs – and surprised by how tiny the ATtiny was, I aimed to make the circuit as small as possible!
I started off by designing the characters with lego pieces I had on hand then designed the rest of the components around them.
I then started preparing for each part (unfortunately had to cut out the silicone plan due to limited time)
The jig from class works perfectly.
Again, due to limited time I was only be able to finish one. The soldering and layout on the perfboard took much longer than I’d imagined (most likely because I was very focused on making it tiny!).
Also, the pushbutton of the finished piece broke last minute and I was unable to debug it!
- Plan the wirings well, test everything!
- Design and measure everything!
Through the assignment I believe I have a much better sense of the prototyping process and will try to manage the time better next time.