^ (Project using Beetle board instead of custom PCB)
Custom PCM Eagle files and PDF: https://github.com/hellonun/homemade_hardware/tree/master/slide_pcb
- Do we need to connect GND and VDD on each side of the chip together?
- How much warning is allowed regarding the wire touching (the pins on the chip already has warning)
- What are the 5×2 pads on the sides of the micro USB? Are they to lock the cable? Or should they be connected to something?
NOTE: the 3 headers are to connect to the slide // I tried to model the slide but doing it this way saves space because the USB connector is at the same spot as the pins on the slide
(Maybe I want to make cut-corner edges to make them fitted to the wood/acrylic underneath)
This is the sketch of each layer of the device. The PCB in this case will replace the Beetle board (at the bottom).
Once assembled, the device will look like this
Chip ATMega32U4 (big pins)
I had a problem with the slides because they turned out to be logarithmic instead of linear. I am still trying to figure out the algorithm to fix this.
What it looks like …
What it’s supposed to look like …
Other than fabricating the board. I’ll also be working on the synchronous web instrument next week.
ATSAMD11C14 vs ATMega32U4?
Both native USB
ATSAMD11C14 (32 bit): less pins, low memory, faster, easier to solder, need J-link to program
ATMega32U4: more pins, higher memory, slower, difficult to solder, directly program
Bigger pins ATMega https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/microchip-technology/ATMEGA32U4RC-AUR/ATMEGA32U4RC-AURCT-ND/2774248
Other parts and lead free solder @digikey
Press “a” to play
code to connect everything: https://github.com/viztopia/osc-relay
The idea is to have 12-14 people controlling different slides from different physical spaces but same digital space.
About variable clock:
This week we put the Eagle file to work!
Bantam setup: http://homemadehardware.com/guides/bantam-setup/
Bantam milling: http://homemadehardware.com/guides/bantam-milling-1/
CUTTING – Cutting my first Tiny PCB – this went quite smoothly with the help of Arnab. I only had to change the bit once as the design did not require the engraving bit (I’d made the cuts as thick as possible to ease the milling and the electrical flow).
CLEANING – After cleaning with Scotch Brite, the PCB was ready to be soldered on. I made sure the copper crumbs were not blocking any of the cuts.
SOLDERING – I made a huge mistake here when putting solder paste on to the board. I put on too much solder connecting most of the LED and resistors all together! (mistake!) Of course this was cleaned once I realized.
POWER TESTING – 2 of the LEDs did not come on (top left hand corner) and I had to re-solder those.
CODING – Finally time to upload the code. At first I had used the jig and a separate power and ground source while trying to upload code on to the PCB. This caused issues because there wasn’t a common ground. (mistake!) After changing to powering by the same Arduino board as the one uploading the code, everything worked fine.
Sensor making – I sculpted another atTiny shaped sensor using a wire to use as the capacitive sensor (hanging off the bottom of the board). ***There are 3 atTiny’s here… can you spot all of them?***
Final output – after Andy placed all of them together …
I hope my PCB works as an ‘i’!